Pertaining to this. There were two interesting investigative story written by GT about the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) not too long ago.
BCI is an 'NGO' and certification body to certify cotton producers for best practices. Kinda like what Rainforest Alliance does for tea and coffee. These best practices include quality, safety, environmental sustainability, and 'decent work'. Certification from BCI is important, because the biggest apparel brands would source only BCI-certified cotton products. This is where the BS happens.
The BCI branch in Shanghai was responsible for certifying cotton producers in China. They had been certifying Chinese cotton producers for years with no issues. Even till today, they have found no problems of 'forced labour' with Xinjiang cotton producers. The problem is the BCI HQ in Switzerland. They were the ones who pushed this 'forced labour' BS and overuled BCI Shanghai.
BCI HQ decided out of the blue to suspend the certification of the Xinjiang cotton producers. Citing "current complicated international environment" as the reason. I call it sabotage and BS!
Why is this BCI certification important? Because without it, you cannot sell to BCI retailers and brand members. Which happens to be some of the biggest international brands.
Basically, BCI in Switzerland participated in a conspiracy to sabotage and defame Xinjiang's cotton business.
Without BCI's certification, big international companies like H&M and Nike naturally would not source from Xinjiang cotton producers. But that still does not excuse H&M and Nike for loudly proclaiming: "We do not source cotton from XUAR because of our concerns for forced-labour". Well, did you dumbasses had the concern to fact-check on that 'force labour' allegation? Let me help you. You could have just said: "We do not source non-BCI certified cotton". Or just STFU, because no one was complaining at the time. But no, those dumb execs on these companies wanna be human-rights justice warriors. They wanna punish Chinese cotton producers and protest to China over BS. They will say that this is their freedom of speech. We can say that they too the have the freedom to go f**k themselves.
But you know what? BCI also practices double standards. Why then Indian cotton producers who notoriously employ child labour could still be elligible for BCI certification? No certification suspensions for these guys. But BCI is helping them to "conduct research on the challenges these cotton producers faced". Why not the same for Xinjiang cotton producers?
BCI should be held accountable for this Xinjiang cotton fiasco. It is quite clear that this Western-headquartered NGO and certification body had abused its power to further anti-China agendas. Perhaps China should look closer into BCI and punish them severely. Sue and sanction them for defamation and for intervening in China's internal affairs. BCI Shanghai who is relatively innocent could be spun-off into a separate certification entity. China should rain hell on BCI and make them an example, lest there could be another Western-headquartered NGO/certification body who could do the same thing. Like the Rainforest Alliance, and ISO.